The Nose, November 2010
Posted: 2010-11-09 21:08:15 UTC
Tags: trip_report,climbing,featured
The first week of November, my friend Jeff and I climbed the Nose route on El Cap. This was both of our first times up El Cap, and it was pretty awesome. We pushed hard every night, hauled major pigage and suffered like dogs.
Here are some photos and a short trip report. Clicking on any photo will show a larger version, and all of the photos can be found by clicking >>here<<.
Jeff gearing up in Upper pines campground:
We took basically a triple rack of camelots up to #3, 2 #4 camelots and one #5. Also we took a double set of offset aliens, and a set of nuts (more or less), including micros.
On Tuesday, we fixed the first 4 pitches to Sickle ledge, and hauled the bag up as well. I forgot the camera on this day. On wednesday, we blasted early in the morning.
Gearing up to lead off of Sickle:
We took most of the day to climb and haul up the Stove legs pitches. It was pretty hot the whole day, and we baked on the south facing cliff.
Jeff leading a stove leg pitch (the pitch above the awesome hand crack):
The pig, up in the stove legs:
Me, leading the pitch up to Dolt Tower (actually two pitches below Dolt, but we linked this one and the next short one). This was a pretty cool pitch. About a hundred feet of wide hands climbing and then 50 feet or so of fists.
We ran out of light a pitch above Dolt Tower, and pushed in the dark for two pitches up to El Cap tower, arriving around 9. We had company on El Cap tower. Mash and Marsha, who were bailing, were some of the nicest people you'll ever meet. They set us up with extra food (hot food too) and water. Mash even lent me his wall climbing harness because my harness was giving me sores on my hips from all the hauling. Totally awesome people.
The next day we led in blocks, and I took the first 4 pitches. Texas flake was not really the horror show I'd heard about. I felt pretty secure in the chimney, despite only having one bolt for protection in 50 feet or so. The King Swing was awesome. My first couple tries I was a little bit too high, but I lowered a couple more feet and stuck it right away.
Me on the King Swing:
Jeff took over on Eagle Ledge after the King Swing, and did some nice climbing through the Grey Bands, while I suffered in the heat at the belay.
Jeff in the Grey Bands:
Evening light below the great roof:
I picked up the lead again at the great roof just as it was getting dark, and did the next two pitches. Our goal was to make it to Camp 5 that night, which is three pitches above the Great Roof. We started bogging down pretty good when it got dark, and I climbed the next two pitches really slowly. The Great Roof and Pancake Flake pitches were really good, but I wish it would have been light to lead them.
Jeff bailed me out on the lead up to Camp 5, as I was really tired. We set up the ledge and bivied there (from the next morning):
The next morning we got a really late start, and Jeff led the first three pitches. Which included the Glowering Spot and the changing corners.
Jeff on the pitch above the Glowering Spot:
Top of the changing corners pitch. Getting pretty high up there:
I took over for the final 4 pitches to the top, and once again pulled the night shift. Me on the pitch above the changing corners:
The last few pitches had some pretty good climbing, but we were tired and generally suffering. We topped out at around 11pm, and bivied with very little water on top.
Next morning, organizing gear, in prep for the descent:
Carrying the pig down the east ledges totally sucked. It was constantly pulling me off balance and I felt like I was really clumsy.
But we made it down in a few hours.
